Point Douro

 

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I headed towards Bunbury for one single reason - Fairy Tern at Point Douro. I knew they had been seen there in the last few days along with a plethora of waders. With a caravan park right across the road, I was in. Unfortunately, my long term companion - Google Maps - was not so keen. First it took me to the promenade park across the water and then helpfully suggested I could walk across the water to the point. Try again. Next it sent me to a pull in which looked like I could park my van there. Locked gates with trespassing signs. The very helpful caravan park owner gave me the lowdown. The land partly belongs to Parks & Wildlife and unknown private owners. There was a track along the south side which everyone uses without issue. 

So, off I went and it was a good track along the river to the point. My first encounter was with an Eastern Osprey on guard duty next to a nest. It kept a close eye on me as I walked past. I love how these birds will look you straight in the eye. I always think if they could talk they would be saying 'Yeah? What do you want?'. 

Eastern Osprey (Pandion haliaetus)

There was marshy area to the north of the track but no signs of life which surprised me. Nothing along the river shoreline either. I began to think I might not find the waders. Further along, across the water were 3 species of cormorant, some Caspian Tern and gulls. 

As I got to the end of the point the waterway opened up in front of me and despite the changeable weather, it was spectacular. I also began to hear the peep peep of waders. Round the corner was a large area of beach full of mud, which of course, waders love to feed in. I could see a hundred or so small shapes pecking away at the ground in the distance and some larger birds to the eastern side. I headed that way along the edge as mud and sand can be unpredictable. I have been walking on sand in Queensland one minute and up to my waist in mud the next. Never a good experience when you are desperately trying to recall tips from Bear Grylls! 

As the waders came into sight, I picked out Grey and Pacific Golden Plover, a Far Eastern Curlew and Red-necked Stint. Magic. 

Red-necked Stint (Calidris ruficollis)

And there they were - very small terns with yellow bills. Fairy Terns. I have seen one in New Zealand and they are so cute. These not so much as I caught them in the act! He presented her with a fish and while she was distracted, he hopped on. When they had finished, I crept closer to get some photos. They were unconcerned (tired possibly after that action). 

Australian Fairy Tern (Sternula nereis)

I cautiously crept along the muddy beach towards the mass of birds I could see further away. I don't know how it happened but while I was scanning the distance, the Red-necked Stints were suddenly very close. They were furiously digging in the mud and moving en masse in my direction. All I could do was stand still. If they were that hungry, I didn't want to disturb them. So I stayed still and took photographs as they moved around me. It was a wonderful experience but I didn't know how I was going to get off the beach without upsetting them. The problem was solved by the osprey who goosed all of us and the stints took off. 

On the way back (evils given by the nesting osprey again) I was, as usual, scanning the trees for any kind of movement when I saw a shape emerging from a hole in a dead tree. I was delighted to see a pair of Elegant Parrots and I spent some time photograph them as they embraced and courted. Double magic!

Elegant Parrot (Neophema elegans)

On my second visit to the point I found more bush birds the best of which was a Singing Honeyeater hunting for nectar.

Singing Honeyeater (Gavicalis virescens)

It was a lovely place to visit and just sit, watching the wildlife. You had to feel sorry for the fish though - they were being hunted by dolphins, cormorants, terns and the very hungry osprey!

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Busselton

 

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Busselton is a lovely little town. It is geared towards tourism as it is on the coast and warmer than Augusta but cooler than Perth. It still maintains a small town feel though and the beaches are beautiful. I came here in 2017 and loved it so I was pleased to be back in 2022. I remember vividly the terns fishing from the pier and corella on the grassed areas in late afternoon. No corella this time but the terns were sitting on the beach, sunning themselves.

Great Crested Tern (Thalasseus bergii)

There are a lot of waterways and forest areas in and around Busselton and consequently there are a lot of birds. I started at the pier and returned there several times during my stay. The Great Crested Terns were sitting on the beach along with Silver Gulls, Feral Pigeons and Welcome Swallows who swooped overhead. The pier is enormous (there is even a train to get tired legs to and from the end). 

Feral Pigeon (Columba livia)

Silver Gull (Chroicocephalus novaehollandiae)

Welcome Swallow (Hirundo neoxena)

Next was a layby on a main road running east/west that overlooked the Locke Nature Reserve to the south. This became my favourite place to sit because of the number and variety of birds. A set of low trees were home to a lot of ibis with young. In between me and the trees was a water channel with numerous species of ducks also with ducklings. I sat several times watching the comings and goings and trying to photograph the ibis as they landed. Not very elegant but made for great pictures. 

Pink-eared Duck (Malacorhynchus membranaceaus)

Straw-necked Ibis (Threskiornis spinicollis)

Australian Grebe (Tachybaptus novaehollandiae)

Pretty much directly south from the wetland was the Malbup bird hide. Sitting directly on water and the approach running through bush, it was just lovely. Sitting on posts out into the water were Little Pied and Little Black Cormorants and in the water around them were numerous Hoary-headed Grebe. Overhead a Whistling Kite was calling and 28 Ringneck Parrots zipped about. Returning at night is recommended because the area is a haven for possums and other nocturnal creatures but that is too late in the day for me!

Hoary-headed Grebe (Poliocephalus poliocephalus)

Little Pied Cormorant (Microcarbo melanoleucos)

On the way out kangaroo fed on grass. On the way in, I was walking too fast and spooked them. Learning from that, I crept back out from the hide and although they could see me, they carried on eating. I was thrilled to be so close to them.

Western Grey Kangaroo (Macropus fuliginosus)

As I sat in my van drinking tea, I could hear this delightful trill that was familiar but it took me a while to pinpoint the owner. It was a group of Yellow-rumped Thornbill. They are so attractive to look at and listen to.

Yellow-rumped Thornbill (Acanthiza chrysorrhoa)

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Cape Leeuwin and Augusta

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Augusta is a lovely little town with incredible views of the Southern Ocean and some million dollar homes right on the shore. On the north western coast is the Indian Ocean and they meet at the tip of the most south western point of Australia - Cape Leeuwin. The meeting of these oceans makes for a changeable weather system and the area is considerably cooler than notoriously sticky Perth.  

My first stop was Cape Leeuwin. I knew that it was my best chance to see the Rock Parrot. These tiny parrots have eluded me so far on the south coast and indeed I had looked for them here when I visited in 2016 and didn't see them then either. I was hopeful and amazingly, I saw one before I even entered the tourist attraction. I guess getting there 2 minutes after they opened helped! Inside I found several groups and counted a wonderful 17 birds altogether. 

Rock Parrot (Neophema petrophila)

Very similar to the Elegant Parrot, these birds were so cute as they chattered away while feeding on the grass and flowers. 

Also on the grass were Australasian Pipit. Usually shy, they seemed quite happy in the company of the parrots as they also fed on the grass.

Australasian Pipit (Anthus australis)

Back in Augusta, I walked along the river and the peppermint gums were in flower and smelled incredible. There has been a lot of restoration work here and it is a haven for lots of waterbirds. Unphotographable, but I did get glimpses of cormorants and pelicans as I walked. I sat on a bench next to a small pond and watched the ducks for a while until my attention was caught by a White-breasted Robin. What a lovely environment.

Pacific Black Duck (Anas superciliosa)

White-breasted Robin (Eopsaltria georgiana)

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Barrabup Pool

 

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Barrabup Pool is a few kilometres north west of the little (and very nice) town of Nannup. It has been used as a recreational area for over 100 years since logging operations began. In early morning, still light it is gorgeous, surrounded by Marri trees and native bush. The campsite was a hundred metres up the hill behind the pool. It was small and very quiet. 

Sitting next to the pool I tried to identify the calls of the numerous birds I could hear. Robins, fantails and fairywren hopped around on the ground while black cockatoo feasted on the blossoms in the canopy. It was a dream. 

Then a Red-winged Fairywren appeared on the deck in front of me. These birds have been so shy and difficult to photograph since I have been seeing them in Western Australia. Here, they were all over the place and out in the open. A female buzzed around me and I could hear chicks crying for food. I stepped away so she felt safe to return to them. A fledgling chick hopped around my feet and it took me ages to get a photograph of it when it was far enough away. Dad followed it around offering advice. I am ticking off getting great shots of the species of fairywren and these little ones were amazing.

Red-winged Fairywren (Malurus elegans)

I could hear lots of Western Whistlers calling across the trees. It was like a chain as they answered each other. I have seen lots of females but no males. I thought I might stand a good chance here and it wasn't long before I spotted one. He sang for me as well.

Western Whistler (Pachycephala fuliginosa)

Late in the afternoon dozens and dozens of Red-tailed Black Cockatoo circled the pool and settled in the trees calling incessantly. These birds are the Forest subspecies and it was a delightful cacophony. Every morning I could see evidence of their activities strewn on the ground with twigs, leaves and discarded fruit.

 

Forest Red-tailed Black Cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus banksii naso)

There were Grey Fantail everywhere and I loved watching them as they sat on the railings of the bridge dashing off to catch bugs before returning. I was trying to photograph one on the ground who was displaying his full tail when I saw it feeding a youngster. Baby fantail are always incredibly cute and as this one sat and waiting for more food I was able to photograph and video it.

Grey Fantail (Rhipidura albiscapa)

One afternoon I sat at the picnic table in the campsite and listened to the sounds of the forest. The pardalote were noisy in their activities - the striated in the leaves and the spotted poking around in the bark. Silvereye and thornbills came and went chattering in groups and higher up I could hear Rufous Treecreeper and Western Whistler with their repetitive calls.

Striated Pardalote (Pardalotus striatus)

Spotted Pardalote (Pardalotus punctatus)

A rustling behind me caught my attention and I turned to see a Scarlet Robin perched in the familiar robin like pose on a tree. I snapped away and then watched. The female, male and juvenile were working their way through the site feeding and chatting.

Scarlet Robin (Petroica boodang)

On my last night, I moved down to the Workman's Pool campsite. The pool wasn't as nice as Barrabup Pool but as that was the domain of the Timber Plant Manager and this was left for the employees, it was to be as expected. But what it did have was a patch of protected grass in
the middle of the site. I suspected it might get some visitors and it did. The rosella and ringneck fed across the grass and were very tolerant of me. It was great to get clearer shots of the stunning rosella.

Western Rosella (Patycercus icterotis)

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Big Brook Arboretum

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I drove north from Walpole for around an hour and half through thick forest. The road was a sliver through dense trees and it was magical. I don't remember Western Australia being so lush but the forests feel healthy and bursting with life. I came out of the trees and was thrust into wine making country. I almost felt like I had been transported to rural France. The pastoral land was just as pretty as the drizzle lifted. Just before I reached the town of Pemberton I turned into the track towards Big Brook Dam and just beyond that was the campsite.

I am loving travelling at this time of year. It is nice and cool, the roads are quiet and the campsites have few people in them. It was the same here. The site was a clearing in the forest and I could immediately hear bird song from high up in the canopy. A family of magpie squabbled and squawked around the camp. It was very lovely but I knew birding would be difficult. The drizzle had returned and the tall trees would make things challenging.

I first walked to the Arboretum and marvelled at the variety and beauty of the trees. They seemed to all be planted in 1935 and I wondered what life would have been like for the people who planted them. It was that kind of nostalgic place. I could hear Rufous Treecreeper calling from high up with their distinctive 'pink pink' song. Grey Fantail were all around me, flitting about catching bugs.

Photography was next to impossible under these conditions but fortune smiled on me once again when a male Scarlet Robin landed right in front of me. My first one for my 2022 trip. I rattled off 3 shots and only 1 landed. But that was all I needed.

Scarlet Robin (Petroica boodang)

I walked along the road next towards the dam and there was so much activity with fairywren, thornbill and scrubwren all darting in and out of cover. A Laughing Kookaburra watched on with seeming disdain.

Laughing Kookaburra (Dacelo novaeguineae)

And that was it. I would like to say I will go back when the weather was a bit brighter but I probably won't.

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Coalmine Beach

 

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Coalmine Beach Caravan Park is a few kilometres east of Walpole and sits within the National Park and is very close to the water. It is stunning, full of huge, beautiful trees and most importantly, there are lots of birds. Starting with a feeder outside the office. Common Bronzewings first caught my eye. There is nothing common about these birds. I only realised how they got their name when I saw one fly away recently. The underside of their wings is a burnt brown, bronzy colour. Never seen that before.

Common Bronzewing (Phaps chalcoptera)

Around the park were lots of wattlebirds, magpies and cockatoo. The noise was fabulous. Every now and again the wail of the black cockatoo would pass overhead. I was disappointed that because of the bad weather, there was no real opportunity to see water birds. I did see numerous pelican and a couple of sea eagles fly over.

Galah (Eolophus roseicapilla)

Red Wattlebird (Anthochaera carunculata)

The manager of the park, once he knew I was a birder, invited me to his garden where he said lots of birds come in to feed. It was only a few kilometres away so when there was a break in the weather I headed up there. True enough, in his beautiful garden were lots of birds. I just sat and watched and to my delight a male and female Western Rosella flew in. I didn't know how different the female was.

Western Rosella (Platycercus icterotis)

Next up was the Red-eared Firetail and I crouched behind a bush to get close to these tiny birds. Similar to the Painted Finch from Queensland, they are incredibly pretty.

Red-eared Firetail (Stagonopleura oculata)

Just for once, the Splendid Fairywren were shy here and while they were hopping around the grass surrounding a bush, they would not tolerate me anywhere near them. This was my only decent shot of a moulting male.

Splendid Fairywren (Malurus splendens)

I had better luck with the Yellow-rumped Thornbill but they did bounce around a lot. Most of my shots were blurred.

Yellow-rumped Thornbill (Acanthiza chrysorrhoa)

To finish off, I got a better shot of the bronzewing. What a fabulous bird.

Common Bronzewing (Phaps chalcoptera)

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