A Birder's Guide to Australia: Cape Tribulation

Check my birding map for specific locations.

In mid-winter 2023 I wanted to get back out on the Daintree River and so booked into the caravan park at Daintree Village. It was only shortly afterwards that I realised I had seen the words Daintree and Village and booked at a caravan park actually on Cape Tribulation, which is across the river. Never mind, I'll head over on the ferry and stay there.

I got an early ferry at first light and I was thrilled to see a pair of Olive-backed Sunbird nesting on the end of a lifeboat. They spent the ferry journey flitting from one side of the river to the other and back to the boat.

I headed up into the cape and my first stop was at the Marrdja Boadwalk. The roads weren't great quality but driving through the rainforest and at times touching the shoreline was just beautiful. The boardwalk was even better with the sun streaming through tall trees onto mangrove floors and a sparkling creek. It was quite poetic! There were lots of birds here but I took no photos of them, preferring to soak up the atmosphere and listen to them. Honeyeaters, monarchs and riflebirds were plentiful.

Once I left the boardwalk, I headed back south stopping at various beaches and lookouts until I reached Diwan and the caravan park. It was a very pleasant place with a long sloping hill at the back and lots of little nooks and crannies to explore. I spent the afternoon wandering up and down it and again, I didn't take any photos. The birds were loud but shy. I even heard a Golden Bowerbird calling from the rainforest at the very top of the garden.

As I rounded the kitchen in the afternoon, I saw a cassowary wandering in from the bush. As ever, it was absolutely silent and seemingly unconcerned by the people around. It was feeding on native Quandong berries and everyone stood transfixed as it threw them into the air and caught them. It was so special to be in the presence of this wonderful animal.