**Updated Daintree

Check my birding map for specific location.

2023 Update

Determined to get out on the river in 2023 after terrible weather in 2022 left me sitting in my van for days on end, I visited at the end of July. The weather was changeable with showers and sunshine alternating each day. I was lucky enough to get out on the river twice at dawn and twice in the afternoon. The results were variable. The minimum I saw were lots of horrible crocodiles but when the birds were about, they were magnificent. The highlight was several sightings of the Great-billed Heron.

Estuarine Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus)

Great-billed Heron (Ardea sumatrana)

Green Tree Snake (Dendrelaphis punctulata)

Female Papuan Frogmouth (Podargus papuensis)

Male Papuan Frogmouth (Podargus papuensis)

Striated Heron (Butorides striata)

White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster)

I have had great success at Daintree in the past. The Red Mill House used to be a B&B and the garden was renowned for animal species with Azure Kingfishers in the little pond and bandicoot in the garden. My favourite was seeing a Lace Monitor catch and eat a rather large frog.

Lace Monitor (Varanus varius)

There are 2 real highlights in Daintree. The first is the river boat ride. I have been on numerous occasions with the Sauce and he has a huge knowledge of the river and the wildlife. My first trip was nerve-wracking as we could already see a large croc sitting on the opposite bank of the river. Sauce promised not to let me get in the water though and always stuck to that. Before you even get on the boat, however, there is often Olive-backed Sunbirds in the surrounding foliage and even nesting on the boardwalk. Now that is special.

Olive-backed Sunbird (Cinnyris jugularis)

My favourite sightings were of Shining Flycatcher, seeing both the male and female sitting on nests but this photo of a male in the rain remains one of my most cherished photographs ever.

Shining Flycatcher (Myiagra alecto)

It takes something to get Sauce excited, having seen just about everything on the river but one trip when we found Spotted Whistling Ducks saw just that. They should be on the far side of Cape York so to see them in Daintree was very unusual.

Spotted Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna guttata)

On one occasion we heard what sounded like a dog barking and I looked questioningly at Sauce who just laughed. We rounded a bend and found the culprits, Great-billed Heron. At over a metre tall, these herons are massive and have the usual croaky heron call, just a lot louder. We found adults and juveniles and it was something very special to see.

Great-billed Heron (Ardea sumatrana)

The other wonderful place in Daintree is the end of Stewart Creek Road. It runs out after around 10km with a gate marking the end. But that's ok, because the area just before the gate is full of ant mounds which are home to breeding Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfishers. I met Susan at the Red Mill House and took her to see them. We bonded over adults entering and leaving their nests in these mounds. They seal the area the chick will live so the termites can get to them and no other predator is brave enough to enter. We were staggered that we could just drive to see this spectacle and wondered why hoards of people were not there watching this David Attenborough worthy moment. No accounting for tastes I guess.

Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher (Tansiptera sylvia)

Unfortunately in 2022, I arrived in Daintree to rain and sat for a miserable 5 days in my van as it continued to pour. I didn't get to see any birds or go out on the flooded river. The only photos I did get were of some local cows. Sigh. I will be back though.

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**Updated Cairns Botanic Gardens and Centenary Lakes

Check my birding map for specific location.

2023 Update

Returning in May 2023 to Cairns, the gardens are again a frequent stop for me. Wandering off the main paths, I found a Black Bittern early on and since then I have been wandering around the Freshwater Lake in particular with great success. Here are some of the best.

Black Bittern (Ixobrychus flavicollis)

Little Kingfisher (Alcedo pusilla)

Rose-crowned Fruit-Dove (Ptilinopus regina)

On visiting Cairns, it is always high on my list to go to Centenary Lakes and the Botanical Gardens. They are such wonderous places, not only for the birdlife but also the amazing plants and trees on the boardwalk connecting the 2 areas. 

Early in my 2022 visit, I was wandering around looking for the Little Kingfisher which I had heard was active in the mornings when I met another local birder Mark. He took me to a gloomy part of the lakes at the back where the joining path to the gardens is. Right on cue, we saw it and then another. There have been some fabulous photos taken of this bird but you have to be really lucky to get it in sunlight as most of the time they skulk about in the undergrowth. I was just pleased to see it.

Little Kingfisher (Ceyx pusillus)

Mark was heading up to see the Papuan Frogmouth at the gardens and as I had already stood like a fool staring at trees and NOT seeing them, I tagged along. We found them from outside the gardens and talk about impressive. There was a pair of them with a juvenile and they were huge! Nothing like the dainty Tawny Frogmouth I am used to. I have only seen the Papuan from a distance and to get this close was incredible. They were semi-awake and would open a lazy eye every now and again to look at us. 

Papuan Frogmouth (Podargus papuensis)

Another early morning visit to the lakes saw me stumble on an Eastern Osprey. I later saw a nearby nest, high in a communications tower so no real surprise they would hunt in the lakes. This on was sitting in a tree grooming and looking smug so maybe it had just had breakfast. It was phenomenal to get so close to it. The bird was totally unconcerned by me. 

Eastern Osprey (Pandion haliaetus)

My arrival in March 2022 to Cairns was in the middle of an unseasonable heatwave and coming from the very mild temperatures of New Zealand, I really struggled at times to keep moving. It was one of these times that I sought refuge in the shade near the friendship garden in the middle of the freshwater lake. While I was trying not to pant like a dog, I heard something rustling. A photo opportunity always takes my mind off physical discomfort and so I perked up and looked into the bushes. I was rewarded with a Australian Green Tree Snake. I have seen them before, they are reasonably common but to be so close to it was fantastic. The green and yellow colours blazed in the sunlight.

Australian Green Tree Snake (Dendrolaphis punctulata)

I visited the lakes again at night with Mark and although we heard the Rufous Owl, we didn't see it. I did get a compensatory frog though!

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**Updated Mount Carbine Caravan Park

Check my birding map for specific location.

2023 Update

The weather was pretty poor as I tried to head east at the end of July so I backtracked and went north to Mount Carbine. I was fairly sure that it would be warmer and drier there. My first visit of the year and I was sad to learn that the resident Tawny Frogmouth pair were no longer present. Nikki at the caravan park said one of the was lost during the wet season but they were hoping the other would return. Another surprise was the huge number of Great Bowerbirds present. I had previously seen 3-4 but this year, they were everywhere. One morning I counted over 20 around the bird bath. Also present in good numbers were the Blue-winged Kookaburra who provided fabulous photography opportunities.

Blue-faced Honeyeater (Entomyzon cyanotis)

Blue-winged Kookaburra (Dacelo leachii)

Great Bowerbird (Chlamydera nuchalis)

Pale-headed Rosella (Platycercus adscitus)

I first visited Mount Carbine 10 years ago because it is the easiest place to go (or so I thought at the time) to see Australian Bustards. Renowned in Cairns for the ease of access and different set of species to the rainforest, it is the place to visit. I loved it the first time I went and it is still lovely to go back. I always base myself at the caravan park as it has lots of birds there. In fact I never really saw much in Mount Carbine itself.

Before I reached the park, however, I stopped off at East and West Mary Roads to see if I could find the bustards. Luck was with me as not even 100m down the first road and there were 4 of them standing in the road. They were wet, bedraggled and looked thoroughly pissed off (as only birds can). I, however, was delighted and took some photos from the van and watched them move on.

Australian Bustard (ardeotis australis)

Close by I also found a wet Pheasant Coucal drying out. It was only on processing my photos that I saw the colours on the wings. I have not touched up this photo at all. The sun was shining through its feathers and it almost glowed. I don't think birds are used to rain here, they couldn't seem to cope.

Pheasant Coucal (centropus phasianinus)

With that done, I continued to the park and stayed there just wandering in circles all day long. I had some species in mind that I really wanted to see and over a couple of days got them all. The photographic opportunities at Mount Carbine Caravan Park are terrific. The birds seem to stay local and there is always something happening. I based myself (ie: lounged in my chair half asleep waiting) by the new chicken coop as there seemed to be a lot of activity there. It wasn't long before the Apostlebirds arrived, in numbers to raid the area. I wanted to get a shot of them all squashed together on a wire but this was the best I got.

Apostlebird (struthidea cinerea)

On the periphery of the coop area was the Eastern Blue-winged Kookaburra and this was my only lengthy sighting on one so I was pleased to get such a clear shot. You can't quite believe this huge bird is a member of the kingfisher family!

Eastern Blue-winged Kookaburra (dacelo leachii)

The Blue-faced Honeyeater were competing with the Apostlebirds for who could make the most noise and I followed them around for a while as they fed in their inimitably acrobatic way.

Blue-faced Honeyeater (entomyzon cyanotis)

An unexpected sighting was of a Restless Flycatcher. Their buzzing call usually gives them away and this was the case here. I tracked it down and, again, walked around in circles (the other residents must have thought me a bit mad) until I could get a clear view. I always think this flycatcher to be very elegant and I'm glad the photo reflects that.

Restless Flycatcher (myiagra inquieta)

The main reason though, to come to the caravan park, is the resident Tawny Frogmouth. I was very lucky as they had been absent for a few days (relocating their juvenile apparently). I was so grateful to the owner Nikki who scoured the place looking for them and found that overnight they had returned having successfully persuaded the juvenile to leave home. I always forget how small they are, especially after seeing the huge Papuan species. They let me get close to them at dusk and it was wonderful to see them.

Tawny Frogmouth (podarfus strigoides)

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**Updated Granite Gorge Nature Park

Check my birding map for specific location.

2023 Update

The caravan park at Granite Gorge remains one of my favourite places to stay, even after visiting many around Australia. In 2023 it still didn't disappoint, even if the resident bowerbird has moved its bower out of the park making it more difficult to find. Here are some of the 2023 highlights.

Brush Cuckoo (Cacomantis variolosus)

Pacific Baza (Aviceda subcristata)

Mareeba Rock Wallaby (Petrogale mareeba)

Scaly-breasted Lorikeet (Trichoglossus chlorolepidotus)

Adult Male Scarlet Honeyeater (Myzomela sanguinolenta)

Juvenile Male Scarlet Honeyeater (Myzomela sanguinolenta)

Granite Gorge is 20km west of Mareeba and it is a unique place for visitors to the area as it is the first place you can go to and find a completely different eco-system and range of bird species. I have been visiting for 10 years and still love it (although I don't go rock hopping across the giant boulders any more).

The first think I look for as I enter the drive are the Squatter Pigeons. Although they are quite comical looking as they wander around, they are impossibly cute with their soft pigeon call. My favourite sightings of these interesting birds was when 3 of them were lined up together. They looked content until one of the outside birds would shuffle into the middle. This process was repeated over and over. It was the most gentle jostling for position I have ever seen.

       

Squatter Pigeon (Geophaps scripta)

The Australian Figbirds move around the park in big noisy groups and very often there will be a koel following them. These cuckoos will stick around to ensure their offspring is being cared for appropriately which I find very amusing. 

Female Australasian Figbird (Sphecotheres vieilloti)

Female Pacific Koel (Eudynamys orientalis)

Another noisy resident of the park are the babblers. Usually in smaller groups, they move from tree to tree chatting away to each other as they look for grubs in the bark.

Grey-crowned Babbler (Pomatostomus temporalis)

There is often a kookaburra hanging around the outskirts of the caravan park. I learned the hard way about their hunting habits when one stole a chicken wing from me. I really liked this photo of a kookaburra looking around for food.

Laughing Kookaburra (Dacelo novaeguineae)

Along the roads to the park there are often other birds to be found. I sometimes see bustards in the fields, cisticola in the grass or honeyeaters in the trees. I love seeing friarbirds in particular as they have such unusual calls.

Noisy Friarbird (Philemon corniculatus)

The park is also famous for the Rock Wallabies who should be nocturnal but can be found around the area at all times. They are fairly small and approachable. My favourite time of day is dusk when they come into the caravan park and sneak about. They are extra special as they are a sub-species only found in the Mareeba area.

Rock Wallaby (Petrogale mareeba)

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**Updated Hasties Swamp

Check my birding map for specific location.

2023 Update

I revisited Hasties Swamp early on my return to FNQ and it was quiet. A few weeks later, there were large numbers of Magpie Geese and Whistling Ducks. A little after that, in July, the place was throbbing with birds. On the top deck of the hide, I got over 40 species with no more than 10 from on the water. You can often forget that Hasties is not only great for waterbirds but also bush birds in the surrounding vegetation. Here are my highlights from winter 2023.

Brown Cuckoo-Dove (Macropygia phasianella)

Golden Whistler (Pachycephala pectoralis)

Lewin's Honeyeater (Meliphaga lewinii)

Nankeen Night Heron (Nycticorax caledonicus)

Pale Yellow Robin (Tregellasia capito)

Yellow- breasted Boatbill (Machaerirhynchus flaviventer)

I have visited Hasties Swamp, just south of Atherton for many years and have always found it to be hit and miss. Generally, it is better in the winter (well I think so anyway) but in 2022 I first went in March and it was very quiet. A few ducks and Willie Wagtail. I was very disappointed. By the time I was getting ready to leave Queensland in June, it was bouncing. On my last visit, I arrived very early to at least 500 Sulphur-crested Cockatoo circling and screaming. Seeking sanctuary in the bird hide, I was hit by at least 500 Plumed Whistling Ducks - all whistling. It was a cacophony of the best kind!

Also on or around the water were Pacific Black Ducks, Hardhead, Australian Grebes, various egrets, raptors and Comb-crested Jacana. I spent a lot of time trying to distinguish species from the whistling ducks. 

Plumed Whistling Duck (Dendrocygna eytoni)

Hardhead (Aythya australis)

The bush around the hide and down the little lane are often productive as well. Eastern Yellow Robin can usually be found outside the hide with gerygone darting about as well. I loved seeing the Brown Gerygone moving in a big group around the hide. 

Brown Gerygone (Gerygone mouki)

On one of my early visits to Hasties in the springtime I was lucky enough to see a Latham's Snipe moving around the grasses. That remains a highlight of my birding on the Tablelands.  

Latham's Snipe (Gallinago hardwickii)

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