Musgrave, Cape York

Check my birding map for specific location.

Musgrave is the furthest north I have been on Cape York. Actually, I made it about 40km north of the roadhouse before turning back. I had hoped to get to Weipa on the west coast but as well as being very wild, the roads are terrible to drive on. I was the only 2wd vehicle or campervan on the road and I could feel the waves of disbelief heading my way from the big 4wd utes and trucks around me. I didn't think I was on a fools errand as everyone I spoke to thought I could make it to Weipa. 

Cape York is the wildest place I have been to in Australia. Its like the jungle meets the Outback. There is a plethora of wildlife here from dingo, roos to birds. It is also stunningly beautiful. I loved driving through it where the road was sealed but where the road was not sealed, it was terrifying. While the road remains wide, it changes rapidly from sand to gravel to patches of old concrete. As well as contending with the infamous corrugations, there are areas of debris, dust holes and sudden changes from one to another. On top of that is the never ending dust that means I have to strip the van to clean it when I get back onto solid ground. It is not a place for a campervan with a high centre of gravity and a water tank slung underneath. 

I made it to Musgrave in good time and was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the Roadhouse and caravan park. I stayed there overnight and spent the day sitting next to the dam. Not too close, however, there were warning signs about crocodiles everywhere. These were Freshwater Crocodiles, smaller than their terrifying Saltwater cousins. Australians are much less afraid of Freshies and while they are apparently smaller and less likely to attack, I found them to be equally as sinister. I counted 9 animals floating in the water and on the bank. As darkness fell, I moved the van away from the water's edge. 

Freshwater Crocodile (Crocodylus johnsoni)

I spent some time chasing the rather delightful Large-billed Gerygone as it flitted from branch to branch overhanging the water. In New Zealand, the endemic gerygone is the Grey Warbler and I always associate this active little birds with singing. This species is no exception and I am always amazed at the loudness of their vocals.

Large-billed Gerygone (Gerygone magnirostris)

A friend of mine had spent some time in the area and gave me the location of nesting Red Goshawks. I spent some time driving a back road (thankfully of good quality) and found the inactive nest easily. Disheartened, I sat in the van and waited to see if the birds were still around. Loud screeching indicated their return after some time. The female briefly inspected the nest before taking off again. The male, however, put on a great display as it sat above me dismembering a Rainbow Lorikeet. It was quite a sight.

Red Goshawk (Erythrotriorchis radiatus)

On my return to the roadhouse, I came across a family of Emu. These gentle creatures are easily spooked by vehicles but I was able to watch them for a while as they meandered across the road. 

Emu (Dromaius novaehollandiae)

On my return south, I stopped in at Artemis Station to try to see the Golden-shouldered Parrots again. I was rewarded with a fantastic sighting of a male, sitting and preening. 

Golden-shouldered Parrot (Psephotus chrysopterygius)

In my experience, Cape York is the wildest place in Australia and I hope to get back to explore further. 

eBird List

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S150171340

**Updated Mount Carbine Caravan Park

Check my birding map for specific location.

2023 Update

The weather was pretty poor as I tried to head east at the end of July so I backtracked and went north to Mount Carbine. I was fairly sure that it would be warmer and drier there. My first visit of the year and I was sad to learn that the resident Tawny Frogmouth pair were no longer present. Nikki at the caravan park said one of the was lost during the wet season but they were hoping the other would return. Another surprise was the huge number of Great Bowerbirds present. I had previously seen 3-4 but this year, they were everywhere. One morning I counted over 20 around the bird bath. Also present in good numbers were the Blue-winged Kookaburra who provided fabulous photography opportunities.

Blue-faced Honeyeater (Entomyzon cyanotis)

Blue-winged Kookaburra (Dacelo leachii)

Great Bowerbird (Chlamydera nuchalis)

Pale-headed Rosella (Platycercus adscitus)

I first visited Mount Carbine 10 years ago because it is the easiest place to go (or so I thought at the time) to see Australian Bustards. Renowned in Cairns for the ease of access and different set of species to the rainforest, it is the place to visit. I loved it the first time I went and it is still lovely to go back. I always base myself at the caravan park as it has lots of birds there. In fact I never really saw much in Mount Carbine itself.

Before I reached the park, however, I stopped off at East and West Mary Roads to see if I could find the bustards. Luck was with me as not even 100m down the first road and there were 4 of them standing in the road. They were wet, bedraggled and looked thoroughly pissed off (as only birds can). I, however, was delighted and took some photos from the van and watched them move on.

Australian Bustard (ardeotis australis)

Close by I also found a wet Pheasant Coucal drying out. It was only on processing my photos that I saw the colours on the wings. I have not touched up this photo at all. The sun was shining through its feathers and it almost glowed. I don't think birds are used to rain here, they couldn't seem to cope.

Pheasant Coucal (centropus phasianinus)

With that done, I continued to the park and stayed there just wandering in circles all day long. I had some species in mind that I really wanted to see and over a couple of days got them all. The photographic opportunities at Mount Carbine Caravan Park are terrific. The birds seem to stay local and there is always something happening. I based myself (ie: lounged in my chair half asleep waiting) by the new chicken coop as there seemed to be a lot of activity there. It wasn't long before the Apostlebirds arrived, in numbers to raid the area. I wanted to get a shot of them all squashed together on a wire but this was the best I got.

Apostlebird (struthidea cinerea)

On the periphery of the coop area was the Eastern Blue-winged Kookaburra and this was my only lengthy sighting on one so I was pleased to get such a clear shot. You can't quite believe this huge bird is a member of the kingfisher family!

Eastern Blue-winged Kookaburra (dacelo leachii)

The Blue-faced Honeyeater were competing with the Apostlebirds for who could make the most noise and I followed them around for a while as they fed in their inimitably acrobatic way.

Blue-faced Honeyeater (entomyzon cyanotis)

An unexpected sighting was of a Restless Flycatcher. Their buzzing call usually gives them away and this was the case here. I tracked it down and, again, walked around in circles (the other residents must have thought me a bit mad) until I could get a clear view. I always think this flycatcher to be very elegant and I'm glad the photo reflects that.

Restless Flycatcher (myiagra inquieta)

The main reason though, to come to the caravan park, is the resident Tawny Frogmouth. I was very lucky as they had been absent for a few days (relocating their juvenile apparently). I was so grateful to the owner Nikki who scoured the place looking for them and found that overnight they had returned having successfully persuaded the juvenile to leave home. I always forget how small they are, especially after seeing the huge Papuan species. They let me get close to them at dusk and it was wonderful to see them.

Tawny Frogmouth (podarfus strigoides)

eBird Lists

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S106838219

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S106823722

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S106760606

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S106758129

https://ebird.org/checklist/S33613507

Cumberland Dam, Georgetown

Check my birding map for specific location.

I absolutely loved the Cumberland Dam and ended up spending 5 days here. It was my first real taste of the Outback and there was just nothing not to like here. I loved being able to explore and begin to get to know a diverse place like this and the wildlife within it. Bonus that my friend Louise came out for a couple of days too. 

The dam is only the starting point of this area and I have split it into 3 parts.

1. The dam itself

Brimming with life, the water was always busy with loud family groups of Magpie Geese that you could hear before dawn. Even louder when a White-bellied Sea Eagle tried to snatch a juvenile. There were always Green Pygmy Geese, Pied Stilts, Pacific Black Ducks and Australian Grebes on the water and the Little Black Cormorants and Darter would sit in the trees, sometimes pushing off and flying over the lake till they found a good fishing spot. Forest Kingfisher and Rainbow Bee-eaters would dart out of the bushes and disappear again in a flash.

When it was too hot or I was tired I would just sit under the shelter and watch the daily dramas of the lake. It was very pleasant and I met some nice people there too (hello Deborah!). Reflecting the animal life I would be quiet and still for periods of time and then suddenly something would galvanise me into action and I would jump up and grab my camera ready for it. This was so when I was watching a Great Egret moving slowly along the water's edge and then suddenly shoot its head into the water. It pulled out the most enormous fish. Bear in mind that this bird weighs around 1.5kg and this fish could also be that heavy. It took sometime and manouvering to get it to land and then in a position to swallow it. Marvellous to watch. 

Eastern Great Egret (ardea alba)

You could walk around the dam to the south (where I took the above landscape photo from) and there was a raised track with trees and bushes on either side. It was a great position for photography as the area was teeming with birds. At the end of that little track is the dam wall itself. You can cross it and then walk all the way around the lake but the trick was to walk quietly to the edge of the trees and then look down the dam wall. More water pooled there and I often found a female Darter resting there in the sunshine. One afternoon I found a juvenile Nankeen Night Heron. I knew they were in the area but as they are so cryptic, it is very hard to find them. This one was out in the open and let me watch it for a while.

Juvenile Nankeen Night Heron (nycticorax caledonicus)

From the same position at a different time I was watching the Black and Whistling Kites circling and spotted a different raptor. I didn't know what it was, just that it was different. Always my cue to start taking photos. It was only after it had gone and I could look at my photos that I realised it was a Little Eagle. A first for me and I looked for the rest of my stay but it never came back.

Little Eagle (hieraaetus moprhnoides)

2. The camp itself

Wandering the camp just like me were several Gould's Monitors. Being very large and bright yellow, they were a little intimidating. More than once I saw a surprised camper come head to head unexpectedly with one. But they were only really interested in eating ants and sunbathing (the monitors not the campers!).

Gould's Monitor (varanus gouldii)

I often saw and heard Red-winged Parrots flying past, but one morning I spotted this one perched precariously on some bushes. As I crept forward I saw it pick some fruit and carefully unwrap the spiky protective wrapping and then settle down to eat. It took a good 10 minutes for the bird to finish the fruit and I swear it looked like it was really enjoying it. As did I!

Red-winged Parrot (aprosmictus erythropterus)

One of my favourite sounds of the Australian bush is of fairywrens. The high pitched trill always seems so happy and busy. Whenever I hear it I am determined to find which species it is. In this case it was the Red-backed Fairywren. The females and juveniles are a pale brown and usually there is a single black and red-backed male. He is always tricky to find and I have never been able to photograph him clearly. Until now. 

Male Red-backed Fairywren (malurus melanocephalus)

The dominant honeyeater of the area was the Yellow-tinted. It took me a while to establish which species they were as they were always in family groups chasing each other at high speed. It took several days before I could get a decent shot. Other honeyeaters around were the Rufous-throated and Brown.

Yellow-tinted Honeyeater (ptilotula flavescens)

3. The surrounding area

Outside of the camp was every bit as productive as inside. There was an unsealed road leading past the camp and away to cattle stations further south. Across that road was another dam which was also always busy. I walked everyday along that road and as soon as I was away from the water, the bird species would change. I saw Common Bronzewing, Jacky Winter, Blue-winged Kookaburra and Little Friarbird to name a few. Most of the time I didn't venture far however, I didn't need to. The area outside the camp fence and either side of the road was always busy but early morning saw Black-throated, Masked and Zebra Finch some to the ground to feed. The Rufous Songlark would be buzzing about as were the Black-faced Woodswallows. A real highlight was seeing a Red-backed Kingfisher close up for the first time. 

Black-throated Finch (poephila cincta)

Masked Finch (poephila personata)

Red-backed Kingfisher (todiramphus pyrrhopygius)

Rufous Songlark (cincloramphus mathwesi)

The Great Bowerbird could often be seen (and heard) flying between somewhere just outside the camp fence and a particular bush near the south side of the dam. On day I set off to find out where his bower was. I walked along the edge of the fence line and found it easily under a bush. It was meticulously neat and one of the best looking bowers I have ever seen. A couple of times I saw the female come down and with the possibility of seeing a courtship display I brought out my chair, found some shade and for one afternoon just sat there and waited. I was not disappointed. 

It began (as always with bowerbirds) with a lot of hissing and coughing. The female arrived, bringing a red bottle top presumably as a gift (I didn't find it the next day so I think the male removed it - didn't fit with the aesthetic). She then proceeded to inspect the bower, pulling at the stick construction with a lot more noise. Rather rudely I thought (but what do I know?), she picked up his carefully placed treasures on the path through the bower and chucked them around. During this time the male bowerbird sat patiently at the back of the bower and I did feel sorry for him. After more noise and some flashing of the pink crest behind her neck she rather unceremoniously departed. The male bird immediately got back to repairing the damage.

Great Bowerbird (chlamydera nuchalis)

While I was waiting for the bowerbirds to arrive, a Red-browed Pardalote suddenly flew into the tree above me. I hadn't got a really good look at these birds before and was excited to see one close up. My first shots were of its underside but eventually it perched in an upright position so I could get a better picture.

Red-browed Pardalote (pardalotus rubricatus)

One of the funniest events of my stay at the dam was when I was quietly standing next to a tree on the road photographing something and a Collared Sparrowhawk flew in above me. As I backed up and starting taking photos, it suddenly saw me and I captured its surprise.

Collared Sparrowhawk (accipter cirrocephalus)

eBird Lists
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S114831136
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S114831131
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S114831121
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S114555266
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S114555229