Musgrave, Cape York

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Musgrave is the furthest north I have been on Cape York. Actually, I made it about 40km north of the roadhouse before turning back. I had hoped to get to Weipa on the west coast but as well as being very wild, the roads are terrible to drive on. I was the only 2wd vehicle or campervan on the road and I could feel the waves of disbelief heading my way from the big 4wd utes and trucks around me. I didn't think I was on a fools errand as everyone I spoke to thought I could make it to Weipa. 

Cape York is the wildest place I have been to in Australia. Its like the jungle meets the Outback. There is a plethora of wildlife here from dingo, roos to birds. It is also stunningly beautiful. I loved driving through it where the road was sealed but where the road was not sealed, it was terrifying. While the road remains wide, it changes rapidly from sand to gravel to patches of old concrete. As well as contending with the infamous corrugations, there are areas of debris, dust holes and sudden changes from one to another. On top of that is the never ending dust that means I have to strip the van to clean it when I get back onto solid ground. It is not a place for a campervan with a high centre of gravity and a water tank slung underneath. 

I made it to Musgrave in good time and was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the Roadhouse and caravan park. I stayed there overnight and spent the day sitting next to the dam. Not too close, however, there were warning signs about crocodiles everywhere. These were Freshwater Crocodiles, smaller than their terrifying Saltwater cousins. Australians are much less afraid of Freshies and while they are apparently smaller and less likely to attack, I found them to be equally as sinister. I counted 9 animals floating in the water and on the bank. As darkness fell, I moved the van away from the water's edge. 

Freshwater Crocodile (Crocodylus johnsoni)

I spent some time chasing the rather delightful Large-billed Gerygone as it flitted from branch to branch overhanging the water. In New Zealand, the endemic gerygone is the Grey Warbler and I always associate this active little birds with singing. This species is no exception and I am always amazed at the loudness of their vocals.

Large-billed Gerygone (Gerygone magnirostris)

A friend of mine had spent some time in the area and gave me the location of nesting Red Goshawks. I spent some time driving a back road (thankfully of good quality) and found the inactive nest easily. Disheartened, I sat in the van and waited to see if the birds were still around. Loud screeching indicated their return after some time. The female briefly inspected the nest before taking off again. The male, however, put on a great display as it sat above me dismembering a Rainbow Lorikeet. It was quite a sight.

Red Goshawk (Erythrotriorchis radiatus)

On my return to the roadhouse, I came across a family of Emu. These gentle creatures are easily spooked by vehicles but I was able to watch them for a while as they meandered across the road. 

Emu (Dromaius novaehollandiae)

On my return south, I stopped in at Artemis Station to try to see the Golden-shouldered Parrots again. I was rewarded with a fantastic sighting of a male, sitting and preening. 

Golden-shouldered Parrot (Psephotus chrysopterygius)

In my experience, Cape York is the wildest place in Australia and I hope to get back to explore further. 

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Artemis Homestead, Yarradean

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Artemis Station has been a highlight of my 2022 road trip. I probably wouldn't go there again in my camper van but I am so glad my innocence took me there this time. It is smooth sailing until Laura traveling into Cape York. After that the road becomes a whole new experience. I knew that parts of it were unsealed but I wasn't prepared for the unforgivable and inconsistency of it. You would be sailing along on lovely bitumen and all of a sudden shuddering on vicious corrugations. 5km bitumen, 2km unsealed, 3km bitumen, you get the idea. I'm sure there is a good reason for upgrading the old track to sealed road in patches but it doesn't make it easy on the driver or the vehicle. It was also very busy as it was school holidays and the start of the grey Nomad exodus north. Most people were well equipped with 4wd vehicles and offroad capable caravans. They took the rough conditions in their stride. My stride was around 30kph. I felt battered when I arrived at the station and vowed never to go further on unsealed roads in my van. And it had only been 25km (I counted every metre).

Anyway, it was so worth the bumps. The station is beautiful and the little camp ground adjacent to the main house was fabulous. I loved the tin shed ablutions and the view of the wilderness. Each morning I would walk at first light back down the access road to the main highway. It was so magical at that time of day watching the sky lightening in an array of colours I had never seen before. It was almost like an aurora. The birds would be beginning to call. It was the only time I would hear the White-throated Honeyeater as it would be drowned out later by the parrot species. The noise would slowly build but as soon as the rising sun hit the tops of the trees, the place erupted. It was quite deafening and most glorious.

All day long there was bird activity at the station. There was a dam close by and it was lovely to see waterbirds in such a dry environment. The road continuing from the highway was a great place to walk and bird watch. When I got tired or hot, I would sit in the shade next to my van and wait. The Pied and Black-backed Butcherbirds would often pass by, sit in nearby trees warbling or eating a kill. Sometimes a White-throated Gerygone would pose for me singing it's beautiful melody. And always there were parrots and cockatoo flying past and screeching.

But the reason I was there was to see the Golden-shouldered Parrots. The station has become a focal point for efforts to save them from extinction. Poor land management has lead to increased predation of chicks and the population numbers have crashed. On top of changing the cattle grazing methods they use, the owners support the birds with supplemental feeding. The feeding station not only draws the birds but birdwatchers. It is a well thought out set up with a little bird hide offering shade close to the feeder.

Male Golden-shouldered Parrot (psephotellus chrysopterygius)

The birds generally visit late afternoon and early morning and so it was on my first day that I arrived at the hide at 3pm. Early I know but I was super keen. It was blisteringly hot and quite painful to wait but I was joined by Jill, a Cairns birder and we suffered together. We had just about given up when some parrots flew in. Another 'don't need your bird book' moment. It was quite gloomy so we weren't happy with our photos but just so pleased to see them. Next morning, early on, we were there again and we got great shots in the intense early sunlight. I had 6 morning and afternoon opportunities to see the parrots and I got them every time. Male, female, 1st and 2nd year juveniles. It was an amazing experience, not just as a birder. I felt very privileged to be close to such incredible creatures.

Female Golden-shouldered Parrot

Young Male Golden-shouldered Parrot

Before I left, I interviewed owner Sue about her work with the parrots and it will be published along with my photos in the wonderful environmental magazine, Paws Trails sometime soon.

Juvenile Golden-shouldered Parrot

Even the corrugations on the way out couldn't dampen my spirits after that experience.

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