Lake Hart

 

Check my birding map for specific location.  

I saw Lake Hart had a rest stop and I always like to stay overnight where there is either trees or water (preferably both) and a big lake sounded great. I thought no more about it until I arrived. I had no idea it was a salt lake. The rest area was a way up from the water's edge and I could see the salt flat. It was stunning. I went straight down and in the warm sunshine it was lovely to walk in the shallow water on the flats. I took some photos and for once I didn't mind that there weren't any birds around and then headed back up the hill. 

A commotion alerted me to something going on. Squawking birds is always a good sign. I spotted a black and white lump (truly!) at the bottom of a bush and then 2 birds coming down to it. Fairly obviously a cuckoo being fed by Singing Honeyeaters. The chick was about 3 times as big as the 'parents' and it looked like it must have outgrown the nest and fallen out. Still, it was mobile and vocal and cared for by the hapless honeyeaters. I got some quick shots and left it alone. 

Pallid Cuckoo (Cacomantis pallidus)    

It was quite chilly at the Lake but warm sitting in the sunshine in my van. I was parked near the water tank as ever and enjoyed watching the Zebra Finch coming and going. I always have my camera on standby and was glad I did when I saw these 2 lizards squaring off. The fight was too quick for me to catch but the vivid colours of them was just fabulous to see.

Painted Dragon (Ctenophorus pictus)

The next morning I woke early to try to catch the rising sun on the lake but it was overcast and I was pretty grumpy as I had had a sleepness night worrying about sleeping in. Of course the irony is that I am always awake before 5am anyway! I went out for a walk but it was quite windy and very cold so I gave up in favour of a cup of tea. I did, however, catch a gorgeous kingfisher posing nicely for me.

Red-backed Kingfisher (Todiramphus pyrrhopygius)

Looking back, I don't seem to have got too much in the way of birds but I really loved staying at Lake Hart. I'll be back!

eBird Lists

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119294523

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119215078

Coober Pedy

Check my birding map for specific location.  

Coober Pedy is a town I have heard of. I know it to be the centre of opal mining and that Hamish and Andy once visited it. I wasn't sure really what to expect and was quite amazed as I drove closer to the town by the thousands of mounds of earth, between 2 and 5 metres I estimated, dotting the landscape. Every now and again there were large mine operations and there was just no doubt what the main industry is here. As I drove into town, to my surprise there were more mounds and machinery in gardens

The centre of town caused me much amusement with it's underground motels. I had recently watched the Flintstones movies and the area reminded me of Bedrock! I wondered which town was based on which. I couldn't decide whether to shop for opals or visit 'The Big Winch'. I settled for the sewage farm.

There are 2 sewage farms listed on eBird, another Coober Pedy oddity perhaps. I went to the one with the most recent listings (I couldn't find the other anyway, looked like it had been turned into a sports arena) and found the dog pound. I was sensing a pattern of weirdness in Coober Pedy. Anyway, opposite the pound was a long, thin stretch of water with lots of reeds. I could see swallows swooping along it and could hear the peep peep of dotterels so I knew it was worth a look.

I first found a white-backed Australasian Magpie. I shot it because I have only seen black-backed so far on my 2022 trip. A southern Australia anomaly? On the wire above it was a female Red-capped Robin.

Australasian Magpie (Gymorhina tibicen)

Red-capped Robin (Petroica goodenovii)

In the reeds I could hear fairywren and waited patiently for them to pop up. My luck was in as a male White-winged Fairywren sat up to sing. What an incredible bird. I had trouble processing this image because of the bright colours. I hope I have done it justice.

White-winged Fairywren (Malurus leucopterus)

The dotterels and other birds were not very co-operative so I moved on and decided against staying in town. It was just too busy. I headed south to the Hutchison Monument which also doubles as a rest area. A very good choice as there was a huge are behind the monument and I drove around half a kilometre in till I found a spot next to some bush. I put out my portable bird bath ($1.50 courtesy of KMart) and waited. There was not a lot around other than the ever present Zebra Finches but eventually a rather shy crow (Torresian I think - no pale base feathers in the wind) circled the van and eventually came in. Often dismissed by birders and civilians alike, I think they are beautiful with that glossy plumage and bright eyes. 

Torresian Crow (Corvus orru)

In the bushes were more fairywren, purple-backed this time. Again with some patience, the male came close enough to photograph. Pretty rough looking in moult but still interesting. 

Purple-backed Fairywren (Malurus assimilis)

As the day wore on into late afternoon, the Singing Honeyeaters came out and were flitting around catching bugs. I don't think their call is much of a song but people don't much like my singing either!

Singing Honeyeater (Gavicalis virescens)

All in all, a very satisfactory introduction to South Australia.

eBird Lists
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119124922
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119121137

Glendambo

Check my birding map for specific location.  

I had looked at possible birding sites moving south from Coober Pedy and had found them promising but they were all rest stops and I assume the lists were taken over a good period of time or the lister had explored the area behind. I will stay in the rest areas if they have a nice feel and I think I will be safe. I don't generally wander into the bush alone, the danger is palpable. 

And so, I ended up at Glendambo. No two ways about it, the place is run down. That's the nicest way I can say it. However, there was a patch of flood water that attracted a lot of birds, which is where I started birding. Not able to get near as it was close to the highway and on private property, I did manage to photograph Banded Lapwing. Much nicer to look at and to listen to than their Masked cousins, I was delighted to see them.

Banded Lapwing (Vanellus tricolor)

In the morning, I sat in my van on a track close to where I had seen the lapwing hoping to get more shots. I am always scanning the environment for anything that looks out of place. This is what I found. Bear in mind this is taken with a big zoom lens. Can you see it?

Sometimes you just know you have something good. I reversed, turned round and got as close as I could. I knew it had to be a juvenile as it wasn't moving away from me. I was hoping it would be a Gibberbird or Orange Chat. So, I crept closer to it and got better shots. It was calling to the parents and I turned to see a bright bird calling back from atop a small bush. All the stars aligned, even the sun played fair and I held my finger down until I ran out of memory. And then I left them alone.

Orange Chat (Epthianura aurifrons)

I drove down the only back road in Glendambo, a track running to the airstrip. I was pleased I did as not too far down it I found a family of Chiming Wedgebill. I had only seen them fleetingly in Alice Springs and here they were all around me. 

Chiming Wedgebill (Psophodes accidentalis)

Next I heard parrots and found a male Mulga Parrot feeding a youngster. What a gorgeous sight.

Mulga Parrot (Psephotus varius)

Glendambo's shortcomings were all forgiven!

eBird Lists

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119172564
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119174314
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119209919

Agnes Creek Rest Area

Check my birding map for specific location.  

My next stopover was due to be at the NT/SA border rest area. However, it was teeming with people taking their photos next to the big signs. Way too noisy for me and it wasn't long before I decided to shuffle off to the next place. I always plan for this and I knew there was another rest area not too far south. But ... that was the opposite problem. It was exposed and lonely. So further south it was. My next planned stop was at the Agnes Creek rest area and coincidentally my friend Louise had stopped there and said it was nice and there was an Owlet-nightjar there. 

While it was very quiet during the day on this massive site, Agnes Creek came alive at night. The solitary Pied Butcherbird and numerous Yellow-throated Miners couldn't compete with the night birds. I stayed 2 nights in the end to maximise my opportunities which, as ever, were a mixed bag.

Pied Butcherbird (Cracticus nigrogularis)

Not long after it got dark on the first night, I heard a suspicious cooing from the tree right next to my van. I dashed out expecting the Owlet-nightjar and was delighted to actually find a Barn Owl. Hopelessly unprepared for photography and with no flash, I improvised with my torch and tried to get some shots. I wished I hadn't bothered really as it took time away from looking at this beautiful bird. It was very curious about me and peered around a branch before flying closer and stared at me for around 5 minutes. What a fantastic experience.

Eastern Barn Owl (Tyto alba)

Buoyed by this experience and that I heard owls calling during the night, I was determined to get better photos the next one. I could hear them hooting from several places but this time they weren't heading my way. After some time I did hear a hoot from a tree close by. I knew it was the Owlet-nightjar this time. It wasn't a big tree with a bit of foliage and I looked and looked for the bloody bird but I couldn't find it. As I turned to go back to the van it let off a loud shriek. I swear it was laughing at me! I looked again, still couldn't find it. I was tempted to shake or kick that bloody tree but I thought that would be unkind. I gave up. I'll find another, nicer bird soon. 

eBird Lists
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119112358
https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119112383

Henbury Meteorites

 

Check my birding map for specific location.

So I am starting my journey south to Port Augusta. Now I have solar panels I am less tied to the caravan parks and I am aiming to stay at rest areas and national parks more. I usually plan and research very carefully the places I am going but I didn't for my first location on the Stuart Highway running into South Australia. I had heard that Henbury Meteorites was a possible spot for the Cinnamon Quail-thrush and that was all I needed to know. I booked through the National Parks website and set off. What I didn't realise was that to get to the site (which looks pretty close to the highway) you have to drive 15km on jarring corrugations on a gravel track. It was frustrating and painful. I definitely wouldn't have gone there if I had known (didn't get the quail-thrush either!). 

As it turned out I was glad I went to the campsite. The meteorites were mildly interesting but as usual it was the wildlife I was looking for. No romantic scenes of camel or emu on the horizon but a cracker opportunity to photograph more dragons. A Central Netted Dragon sat very obligingly for me on a rock perfectly framed by the deep orange earth. I just love this shot.

Central Netted Dragon (Ctenophorus nuchalis)

While looking for the quail-thrush and more dragons on the road, I saw a pipit. I haven't seen too many until I explored south of Alice Springs and they are so endearing that I had to stop for it. The Red Centre provided a great background again.

Australasian Pipit (Anthus australis)

Once at the campsite I immediately headed off to have a look at the craters. The ubiquitous Zebra Finch flew all around me. Always makes you smile. It was fairly quiet bird-wise at the main attraction but in the tallest tree growing out of one of the craters was a pair of nesting hobby. I have never managed to get a decent shot of one so the challenge was on. The nest was near the top of the tree and the female was sitting in it, looking slightly dwarfed by it. Close by was the male looking very serious, on guard duty. I visited them a few times and it was always the same arrangement and despite the sun ALWAYS being in the wrong place for a perfect shot, I was pretty happy with what I got. The male was very interested in me so I was as quick as I could be and left them to it. Would love to get shots of the chicks - another one for the wish list.

Australian Hobby (Falco longipennis)

On the way out of the campsite I found a small dam and stopped to check it out. More finches and some Grey Teal were present and noisy but an obvious honeyeater in a far off tree caught my eye. As soon as I looked through the lens I knew it was a White-fronted Honeyeater. Another Lifer. I got an ID shot and moved on, cursing that bloody road. 

White-fronted Honeyeater (Phylidonyris albifrons)

Zebra Finch (Taeniopygia guttata)

eBird Lists

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119002830

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S119002814

Eagleby Wetlands

Check my birding map for specific location.

I visited Eaglby Wetlands on my way back to Brisbane from Lamington National Park. I found it to be a very pleasant place to bird. There was a large pond with vegetation surrounding it and another more exposed lake. I walked around both a couple of times and there was lots of activity both on the water and in the shrubbery. I liked it very much and while I didn't see any of the rarer or harder to spot birds that other more experienced or local birders had done, I was satisfied with the day's haul. 

There were a lot of pigeons and doves in the area and while I have seen a lot of Crested Pigeon, I can never resist their endearing plumage and stature and will always succumb to taking more shots of them. The same can be said of the Spotted Dove and I am disappointed that they seem to always be classed as feral pests. 

Spotted Dove (Spilopelia chinensis)

Crested Pigeon (Ocyphaps lophotes)

I always love seeing grassbirds and the cisticola are most easily seen. This guy was warming itself in the early sun after a rain shower. It was just as cute as!

Golden-headed Cisticola (Cisticola exilis)

The Grey Butcherbird is like a bit of a ghost. You hear them but are never quite sure what bird the call belongs to, such is the variability of their song. Then you might catch a glimpse of one as it moves through the bush and it is an 'oh yeah' moment. If you are lucky, they might stick around for a photo.

Grey Butcherbird (Cracticus torquatus)

Despite it being a wetland, the little bush birds were the star and I shot a decent number of them. Always a bit tricky to identify in the field, good photographs really help. There were 2 species of fairywren there and with a good deal of skulking around (for a change) I got them.

Variegated Fairywren (Malurus lamberti)

Superb Fairywren (Malurus cyaneus)

My best spot of the day was the Rufous Fantail. I would expect it to be in a more rainforest like environment and so was delighted to find it here. They are difficult to photograph as they flit around in the shadows so my photos were not great but I saw it at least and it is a stunning bird.

Rufous Fantail (Rhipidura rufifrons)

On my way back to the car park, I spotted some Pale-headed Rosellas coming in and out of a nesting hole. They were interested because of the lack of blue on the face and the amount of yellow on the back, quite different from the ones I had seen further north in tropical Queensland.

Pale-headed Rosella (Platycercus adscitus)

eBird List

https://ebird.org/checklist/S55416811

Eungella Dam

Check my birding map for specific location.

I visited Eungella with my friend Louise for one purpose - to see the Eungella Honeyeater. It can, not surprisingly, only be found there. A tiny stretch of hills with this endemic honeyeater. The road upwards was daunting with lots of warning signs. It was a little nervewracking, very steep. Once at the top it is a beautiful drive to the township of Eungella which I only passed through. We were staying at the dam some 30km further on, including over 20km of unsealed road. My poor van. It does not cope well with gravel and as usual, we counted every bone jarring kilometre. But it was so worth it. The campsite is huge with so much space alongside the water. There were very few people there during our stay and we were able to relax in the peace. 

We were not immediately overwhelmed with bird activity but it was so pleasant that we didn't mind too much. We walked along the water and saw dotterel, ducks and darter. Louise was really pleased to see a Great Crested Grebe but it never came close to the shore. The cormorant and darter seemed to have favoured spots to sit and dry their wings and once we knew where, we were able to get close to the Darter for some photos. I had never seen one with such variable plumage.

Australian Darter (Anhinga novaehollandiae)

We walked or drove several times around to the dam itself and while it was not accessible, there was a lot of activity in the surrounding trees and slopes down to the lake. My favourite was a Striated Pardelote which hovered around us, calling incessantly.

Striated Pardalote (Pardalotus striatus)

Back at the camp, we came across Yellow-throated Miner which I had only briefly seen in Townsville. They seemed to hang around the same spot so we used the vans as hides to get closer to them. 

Yellow-throated Miner (Manorina flavigula)

It was a full moon while we were there and it was a great opportunity to try some night photography of the trees. A mixed bag but a lot of fun.

We went to Chelmanns Road to look for the honeyeater and found a really good amount of birds. Regent Honeyeaters stuck to the very tops of the trees, we could hear Eastern Whipbirds but never saw them and all the while we were looking for the honeyeater. We found it in several places but only got one clear shot opportunity. Unfortunately, I choked. This was my first big find on this trip and I just couldn't focus on the bird. In my defence, the conditions were lousy but still I have no decent shot of the Eungella Honeyeater. At least I could tick it off I suppose. I left feeling determined that it would not happen again.

On the way out I spotted an Australian Bustard on the side of the road in full display. I pulled up, reversed and it just stood there, stock still. I got some shots and left it to it.

Australian Bustard (Ardeotis australis)

eBird Lists

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S110294472

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S110153138

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S109956733

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S109943760

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S109843389

Lake Eacham

Check my birding map for specific location.

Lake Eacham is stunning. The waters are crystal clear and the surrounding rainforest is incredible. You must get there early though as one of the best birding spots is actually in the car park. in April 2022 I visited with a Cairns birder Mark and although there were already people there on a hot weekend day the car park was fizzing. We quickly found Silvereye, scrubwren and thornbill before being distracted by a male Victoria's Riflebird. It disappeared before I could get good shots but we knew it was going to be a good day. Zooming around overhead were parrots and we followed the Double-eyed Fig Parrot until it settled to eat. I love these little birds, they are quintessentially exotic. 

Double-eyed Fig Parrot (Cyclopsitta diophthalma)

Once done in the car park we walked the track that goes all around the lake through the rainforest. It was a sensory overload with birds everywhere. We saw shrike-thrush, robins and monarchs and best of all another Riflebird, the female this time. She was using that huge bill to dig into bark for bugs. Unconcerned by us, we were able to watch her for some time.

Victoria's Riflebird (Ptiloris victoriae)

But then, something else interesting. Also combing the trees for bugs was the White-throated Treecreeper. Often very quiet, you need to see them working the tree trunks to find them. Even then it is tricky as they scurry up the trunk and disappear around the back.

White-throated Treecreeper (Cormobates leucophaea)

A real treat was when we passed a Red-legged Pademelon feeding very close to the path. Normally they bolt as soon as they see you but she continued and we stayed really quite trying to get photographs through the bush. She was stunning and it was a thrill to be able to show her to some passing kids who thought it was the best thing ever. 

Red-legged Pademelon (Thylogale stigmatica)

eBird List

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S107147112

Trephina Gorge

 

Ghost Gum - Endemic Eucalyptus of Central Australia (corymbia apparrerinja)

Check my birding map for specific location.

Trephina Gorge is an hour's drive east of Alice Springs and within it there are 4 campgrounds. 3 were accessible to me in my camper and as I didn't know which was best I booked to stay 2 nights at each. The gorge itself is stunning with huge orange/red cliffs surrounding the dry creek bed. The birdlife was abundant and I spent hours each day counting and photographing them. My favourite site was the Panorama Campground with big bays and a central area for picnics and BBQs. To the back of my site was an open area that had been somewhat burned in a wildfire that had passed through 6 weeks before. Not very pretty really but it seemed good for the insectivores. 

I explored the campsites and the gorge, walking long the creek bed and climbing to the top of the cliffs. The views were amazing and you had to wonder at the forces of nature that created these amazing places. I cannot get over how odd it is, though, as the vast majority of creeks are dry. Some of them are huge and it gives me the shivers to think of the amount of water that must be present at times, to fill them. Central Australia is a very interesting and unusual place.

There were not many raptors present in the gorge but I did get a glimpse of a Peregrine Falcon a few times. I wondered if the other species prefer more open ground. One thing it isn't short of is honeyeaters. I saw Brown, Spiny-cheeked, White-plumed, Grey-headed, Singing Honeyeaters and of course the ever noisy Yellow-throated Miner. At the Panorama site there was a water tap (amazingly, the water was drinkable which I didn't find in the more commercial West MacDonnell Ranges) and a container for the birds. Behind that was a big bush and a cursory look indicated activity. I pulled up a chair and just sat for a while. There can't be many pastimes where sitting in front of a bush can be so rewarding! Zebra Finches flew in, drank and chatted and flew out again all day long. It was almost therapeutic to watch them. Loud as they were, the dominant noise was from the Peaceful Doves. I haven't heard their regular calling since I left Far North Queensland and it was lovely to be able to listen to them again. There were a few handsome Diamond Doves too and I laughed as a poor bird spent 10 minutes going around and around the water container and never figured out how to reach the water. 

Singing Honeyeater (Gavicalis virescens)

White-plumed Honeyeater (Ptilotula penicillata)

I heard Horsfield Bronze Cuckoos calling frequently and spent a happy afternoon either photographing one out of the back of my van or creeping around the area trying to get closer to another. One morning I saw them mating and then one feeding another. Just for once everything came together and I got that on video! I was usually glad of a break though from their incessant whine though, the call not reflecting the beauty of the bird. It was good that I had got used to the call, however, here and in the Western Macs as I knew straight away when I heard a similar call that it must be the Black-eared Cuckoo. I played the call on an app to check and to my delight, a bird flew straight into the bush opposite me. An easy lifer. I got some more photos before it left and I didn't hear the call again.

Black-eared Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx osculans)

Horsfield's Bronze-Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx basalis)

In the afternoons, the Hooded Robin were active and I was thrilled when a male and female came to bathe in my makeshift waterhole. I always put out a container of water behind my van, no matter where I stay. Sometimes birds find it and sometimes they don't. The robin is a particularly attractive bird so I took a lot of photos that afternoon. The Zebra Finches and White-plumed Honeyeaters were also good customers. 

Female and male Hooded Robin (Melanodryas cucullata)

Another treat was to see the Red-backed Kingfisher sitting up high and calling. For a single, repeated note is was piercing and beautiful. I saw and heard it several times during my stay but with some scrambling over rocks I managed to get close enough to it once to photograph and video. He called for 2 days and at the end of the 3rd another bird arrived and they flew off together, so romantic!

Red-backed Kingfisher (Todiramphus pyrrhopygi)

Another lifer at Trephina was the Little Woodswallow. In the open space behind my van at the Panorama site they would catch bugs in the afternoon. I have checked so many woodswallows and have always found the Black-faced variety so I initially assumed these were too. Grudgingly I decided to check again and to my delight, they were obviously smaller and darker. Bingo!

Little Woodswallow (Artamus minor)

eBird Lists

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S118471764

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S118471738

https://ebird.org/australia/checklist/S118471702