Parry's Beach

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Parry's Beach Campsite is a low cost council site further west and again right on the beach. I keep thinking the places I visit cannot get more beautiful but Western Australia delivers every time. The bay is just stunning and you can walk east to the inlet which leads inland to a fairly inaccessible lagoon. To the west is another, smaller bay which you can get to over rocks along the shore or heath further inland.

The lovely caretaker and I chatted and I shared my frustration in seeing lots of black cockatoo flying overhead but not catching them landed. She pointed me in the direction of a track running parallel to the beach and said she sees them there every morning. I spent the next couple of hours walking along the beach to the inlet and then back along the track. With my first step on the track I heard the plaintive call of a black cockatoo. And there it was, sitting right above me.

Baudin's Black Cockatoo (Calyptorhynchus baudinii)

I didn't think it would get any better but as I walked through the bush and flowering scrub, I saw lots of them. They were pretty tolerant of me and it was an incredible birding experience to walk amongst them. I still wasn't sure which species they were, that would have to wait.

Female Baudin's

There are 2 endemic black cockatoo in Western Australia, the Carnaby's and the Baudin's. Superficially they are very similar and difficult to tell apart unless you have been around them enough to distinguish between their only subtly different calls. They do live in different habitat and that was my first clue. I also knew their bills are different so I made sure I got some clear shots. While the Carnaby's bill has a short upper mandible, the Baudin's is longer. These are the Baudin's. Next job is to catch up with the Carnaby.

Male Baudin's

I left the cockatoo to feed and walked down to the beach. Going west, I could walk over rocks to the next small beach. On the way I heard the familiar screech of Caspian Tern. These birds are in full breeding plumage and they looked so fit and well.

Caspian Tern (Hydroprogne caspia)

To my surprise, later in the day I found Splendid Fairywren on the beach apparently looking for bugs. I could hear the fairywren calling everywhere and the Splendids were visible in lots of places. But the beach? There were several males hopping around close by and they weren't too bothered about me. I actually had to step back to get this second bird in focus.

Splendid Fairywren (Malurus splendens)

Back at my van I was putting out my solar panels when a bird flew in and landed on the low fence pole next to me. It was the young Red Wattlebird I had seen (and heard) with an adult around the camp. It was looking for food but also curious about me. Again, I had to step back to get it in the frame.

Red Wattlebird (Anthochaera carunculata)

On my second day I spent a good amount of time on the beach. On my way down there, I found a rather startled looking cuckoo. There was a Brown Goshawk circling and letting off its war cry which I think had the cuckoo on edge. 

Shining Bronze Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx lucidus)

On the beach I spotted some small things running around the beach. It has been a long time since I crawled on my stomach to get close to waders and I was delighted to have to do it here. I could see straight away that it was a group of Red-necked Stint. Not in breeding colours so the red neck was pretty much absent. Still very attractive. One bird stood out because it was bigger and paler - a Sanderling. A very pretty wader. They were feeding along the shoreline darting in and out amongst the waves and digging out bugs from the wet sand. They were very tolerant of me although I did have to wave away some walkers with dogs. They must have thought me a bit mad!

Red-necked Stint (Calidris ruficollis)

Sanderling (Calidris alba)

Also on the shore were the 2 species of oystercatcher in Australia - the pied and sooty. They seemed to be in competition with each other to see who could dig up the biggest worm. 

Pied Oystercatcher (Haematopus longirostris)

Sooty Oystercatcher (Haematopus fuliginosus)

This picture is interesting because it shows the size difference between the oystercatcher and the stint. The oystercatcher is about as big as a fat feral pigeon. It demonstrates how small the waders are! Parry's Beach really turned it on for me.

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Cosy Corner

                                      

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There have been a few campsites on my 2022 that have really stood out. Balgal Beach in Queensland, Kimba in South Australia and now Cosy Corner in Western Australia. Situated right on the beach, it is beautifully laid out with private bays that are limited in number. It is only 30km west of Albany and free to stay. Bonus that there are lots of birds around. I arrived during a period of heavy rain so only started to explore on my second day. There is a small lane leading east, parallel to the shore and I started there. I could hear magpies, silvereye, fairywren and fantails in the low lying bushes and further away trees. Then I came across a group of 28 Ringneck Parrots feeding. I followed them for a while and marvelled at how beautiful they are. Often overlooked as they are common, I think they are stunning birds and was happy to photograph them for as long as they would tolerate me. 

28 Ringneck Parrot (Barnardius zonarius semitorquatus)

I made my way back to the campsite and saw a Western Rosella. I have had brief sightings before but this was my first good look. The red of their head was so bright that it overshadowed the rest of the bird. I followed it around the toilet block (oh the glamour), getting a few funny looks from campers. 

Western Rosella (Platycercus icterotis)

Next I walked along the entrance road for a while and could hear emu-wren. As I waited for them to possibly pop up, I was surprised to find a male Splendid Fairywren sitting on top of a bush just looking around. Where the rosella is vivid red, this guy is several shades of vivid blue. Fantastic.

Splendid Fairywren (Malurus splendens)

The Southern Emu-wren put in an appearance further along and I had to tear myself away from the fairywren. I didn't think my shots were going to be that good of the emu-wren. It is so small that you have to get really close to get a good shot. I was surprised that they were not bad. 

Southern Emu-wren (Stipiturus malachurus)

In the bushes behind my van I regularly heard more fairywren and I sat waiting frequently to glimpse them as they bounced around the edge of the vegetation. I could then jump out the back of the van and try to shoot them. Where the Splendid Fairywren is curious and not shy at all, the Red-winged Fairywren keeps in the gloom and I don't seem to see them as easily. This was my best shot after perching for hours in the back of my van.

Red-winged Fairywren (Malurus elegans)

All around the campsite were flowering bushes with lovely small white petals. It is on the to do list to find out what they were. They did make a nice backdrop when I got birds sitting on them.

Inland Thornbill (Acanthiza apicalis)

Splendid Fairywren (Malurus splendens)

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Stirling Ranges

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The Stirling Ranges are about 100km north of Albany. I decided to detour and head up there as I visited a caravan park there in my 2016 WA trip and loved it. The Stirling Range Retreat is right on the edge of the park and contains eucalyptus mallee woodland and heath areas. To the north is open pasture land and the hills. All of which make a very nice mix of vegetation and native bush and means there are a lot of birds and bird species. It was as lovely as I remembered. My routine was quickly established once I arrived at the park - camera, walk, drink tea. I did this all day, every day. Just wandered around looking for birds. I loved it. I also slept very well!

Whilst the birds fly all around the park, they tend to have their own little patches of territory which makes sense given the different habitats represented here. My priority was parrots, 7 species of which live here. The 2 most glamourous are the Regent and Elegant (appropriate names I think). The Regent is a big bird while the Elegant Parrot is pretty small. The Regent Parrot can be heard calling frequently from the tree tops but you have to get close to hear the chirps of the Elegant species. Both of them, however, feed on grass seeds and so can be found on the ground fairly regularly. The eastern part of the caravan park (which overlaps with the National Park) has more gum trees and native grasses and is where, if you are quiet, you can find them. Many times I saved myself the trouble of photographing these beautiful creatures just by not looking where I was going. Sigh. I did, however, get the hang of creeping around and eventually was able to photograph them. My favourite was of an adorable Elegant Parrot climbing in a clump of grass. 

Elegant Parrot (Neophema elegans)

Regent Parrot (Ploytelis anthopeplus)

The more infrequently seen parrot but probably my favourite was the Red-capped Parrot. There were a lot of juveniles around which don't have a red cap but adult or juvenile, their plumage is stunning. I have seen them several times since I reached Western Australia but still don't have a cracker shot. I am going to enjoy keeping on trying.

Red-capped Parrot (Purpureicephalus spurius)

The Ringneck and Galah are very common in lots of areas of Australia and were present here as well. The Ringneck subspecies are so interesting. I have photographed the Cloncurry and Port Lincoln subspecies and here I found the 28 subspecies. It is so named because of its call but I don't really understand why. You can tell if it is a 28 because it has a red bar above its bill. Great to see them. I just have the Mallee Ringneck to go!

28 Ringneck (Barnardius zonarius semitorquatus)

The Carnaby Black Cockatoo and the Purple-crowned Lorikeet were by far the most difficult to photograph. I only saw the cockatoo flying past. The lorikeet were obviously present as they screeched and cackled as they zoomed about the park in small groups. On following that noise, I could find the gum trees they were feeding in and then I just had to keep trying. Not my best, but so wonderful to see them.

Purple-crowned Lorikeet (Glossopsitta porphyrocephala)

There is a bird that attracts visitors to the park just by sunbathing all day. It is the nocturnal Owlet-Nightjar and lives (just as it did in my 2016 trip) in dead tree hollows in the centre of the caravan park. In the afternoons, it props its self up in a hollow and basks in the sun. Very reliable, which is a joy for a bird photographer. Unfortunately, while the bird is impossibly cute, it doesn't do anything else. Unless you can see it at night, your photography possibilities are limited. One shot is all you need.

Australian Owlet Nightjar (Aegotheles cristatus)

Honeyeaters are very common in the area with the Yellow-plumed and New Holland being most seen. The Red Wattlebird and Brown Honeyeater are not so numerous but probably the loudest. I wanted to see the Gilbert's Honeyeater. I found it by the bird bath and saw it several times. Unfortunately, the New Holland Honeyeater would chase it off so it was a bit tricky.

Gilibert's Honeyeater (Melithreptus chloropsis)

New Holland Honeyeater (Phylidonyris novaehollandiae)

Other very common birds were the Dusky Woodswallow and the Tree Martin. Both took a little tracking as neither stay stationary for long. They both spent the day socialising and zooming about and gave a real character to the place. I loved watching them. 

Dusky Woodswallow (Artamus cyanopterus)

Tree Martin (Petrochelidon nigricans)

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Possum drama in Albany!

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First off, I would like to say that I considered the animals' welfare before I took any actions. Shooting video and photographs were secondary to ensuring their safety.

So I am at a very pleasant caravan park on the outskirts of Albany and after some laptop drama, I am behind in my blog. I got up early this morning and was working away when I heard a loud thump. I glanced up and what looked like a branch had fallen from the tree next to the van. I didn't think much of it until it moved.

I dashed out and saw it was a possum. It looked very dazed but got up and staggered back to the tree. From a distance, I watched on and videoed it as it tried to get back up the tree. It was a bit wobbly (well, it was quite a fall) and it didn't look injured. 

I turned back to the van and pulled up short. There was a baby on the ground. A tiny, very wet baby. Looked like it had just been born. Shit. 

I called the park owners in desperation and we agreed to give it some space and see if mum would come back down. They would join me shortly as there was no doubt that the baby would die quickly alone in the wet grass.

Mum sat in a fork in the tree about 4 metres high. She was grooming and appeared to have recovered somewhat. From inside the van I could see her looking at the baby which was crying. I was praying and willing her on to come down and get it. She didn't. Double shit.

Ring-tailed Possum (Pseudocheirus peregrinus)

The park owner joined me and quickly got a ladder but as soon as he was close to mum, she bolted further up the tree. We had 2 choices - to leave the baby in the fork and hope mum would come and get it before it fell out or call the wildlife carers. The owner thought the latter was the best option. So, off the baby went and I fervently hope they can save it.

Waychinicup National Park

 

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I knew I wanted to visit Cheynes Beach. I had been there in 2016 briefly looking for the 3 regional endemics - the Western Whipbird, the Western Bristlebird and the Noisy Scrub-bird. I was with a Birdlife Australia volunteer who was desperate to see these very rare birds. I was just happy to be seeing birds. We didn't see any of the 3 and my guide was bitterly disappointed. 

Fast forward to 2022 and I am back, a better photographer and birder. I arrived at the beautiful Cheynes Beach and headed straight up the hill alongside the coastline and into the bush. I was not too far in when I heard birds calling to each other on either side of the track. I already had the whipbird from Tozer's so I knew it must be one of the other 2. I waited patiently and the calling escalated. It was the Western Bristlebird and eventually he popped up and sang for me. Pretty special and 2 out of 3 so far!

Western Bristlebird (Dasyornis longirostris)

If you look closely, you can see why it is called a bristlebird!

As I was making my way back to the van, I heard a huge thump coming from the coast. I looked and was amazed to see a whale close to the shore. Naturally, I went closer and spent some time following it and watching. Turns out it was a female with a calf (Southern Right Whale I think). It was incredible to see them interacting. The calf would roll over the top of the adult and try to jump out of the water. I shot a couple of dozen videos but it's not easy when you just don't know when or where they are going to surface (and I thought birds were tricky). This is my favourite video. You can see more on my YouTube channel.

Next I backtracked a little to get to the access road for the Waychinicup National Park campsite. It skirted behind Cheynes Beach and down to the coast alongside a river inlet. It was stunning. 

The first thing I noticed was a number of black lizards. It seemed like every step you took, there would be a rustling as they darted from their sunny post into the safety of the bush. They were rather cool.

King's Skink (Egernia kingii)

I chose a camping spot and settled in. There was so much wildlife here, I was overloaded. Next to my van was a dead tree and a robin sat on it regularly and called. Another 2022 first, it was beautiful.

White-breasted Robin (Eopsaltria georgiana)

I spent the afternoon just sitting and seeing what came by. There were Silvereye everywhere and their cheerful chirping was a lovely soundtrack. As ever, the New Holland Honeyeaters were busy and zipped around. A thornbill landed conveniently on the bush right opposite me.

Inland Thornbill (Acanthiza apicalis)

Such a beautifully marked little bird. 

In the afternoon a White-bellied Sea Eagle circles above me. I had already seen a Little Eagle, Wedge-tailed Eagle and Spotted Harrier between the campsite and Cheynes Beach so this was a real bonus. Not for the tiny swallow though as it tried to scare the eagle away!

White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster)

In the afternoon, I was sitting in the campervan with the doors open working on my laptop when movement caught my eye. I looked up and just about fell over. A bandicoot was wandering around outside. Turns out, that is a common event at the campsite. You share the place with the locally named Quenda. It came and went for a while and answered the question about what on earth was digging holes everywhere!

Quenda Southwestern Brown Bandicoot (Isoodon obesulus)

The next morning I returned to Cheynes Beach to look for the scrub-bird. I started at the beach and immediately saw an osprey flying towards me. Being the ever-prepared professional I am (or just very lucky), I managed to get a few shots.

Eastern Osprey (Pandion haliaetus)

No sign of the scrub-bird in the bush covered hills but as I was leaving I heard one behind the toilet block at the beach! Not one for bushwhacking, I listened for a while and left it to it.

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Tozer's Bush Camp, Bremer Bay

 

Check my birding map for specific location. 

I left Ravensthorpe for Albany and decided to make a couple of stops on the way. On the western edge of the Fitzgerald National Park is Bremer Bay and just before you reach there is Tozer's Bush Camp. It is about 5km on unsealed road and as usual I hate the corrugations. But of course, the upside is that you have to go slow so you can keep an eye out for the wildlife. I knew it was going to be good when I saw a huge Emu running alongside the road and then a pair of Elegant Parrots flying past. 

The camp itself is a huge surprise. The owner is a modest farmer but the camp is amazing, one of the best I have stayed in. It is packed full of plants, trees and flowers. They line all the sites and there are bush walks around the main campsite. The whole place has such a wonderful feel about it and I immediately felt at home.

As usual, I grabbed my camera and set off along one of the tracks. There was a lot of activity and I could hear a call that I didn't know, the owner sitting up on a branch far away. As soon as I looked through the long lens I knew it was a Tawny-crowned Honeyeater. I have only seen them once before on my only other visit to Western Australia in 2016. They made quite an impression with their beautiful plumage and call. It's call wasn't as pretty as I remembered but the colours were. They were common around the park so it didn't take me long to get some great shots. 

Tawny-crowned Honeyeater (Gliciphila melanops)

I tried another of the tracks later on and immediately thought I could hear emu-wren calling from the scrub. I have never seen any species of emu-wren so they are close to top of the wish list. I stood patiently and waited for them to call again. When they didn't, I moved only. Except that as soon as I turned my back, they called again. I waited again for them and they went quiet. We repeated this process a number of frustrating times. I sometimes wish I had an easier hobby. I used to collect stamps and absolutely never did I have to worry about venomous snakes or feel that the subject was mocking me. 

I returned to my van in a sulk and immediately found a pair of Western Whipbird in the bushes next to me along with a group of emu-wren. I spent the next few hours trying to get photographs of them. The whipbird move really fast and the emu-wren don't come up out of the bushes often so it was tricky but so worth it.

Southern Emu-wren (Stipiturus malachurus)

Western Whipbird (Psophodes nigrogularis)

Another call it took me a while to track down was the Western Spinebill. So different to its eastern cousin in looks and song, I was thrilled to get close to a male and then a female landed at my feet! 

Western Spinebill (Acanthorynchus superciliosus)

While the glamour awards were already filled, there were other interesting birds as runners up. I got the Western and Inland Thornbill here.

Inland Thornbill (Acanthiza apicalis)

Western Thornbill (Acanthiza inornata)

My other favourites of my couple of days here were a juvenile Red-capped Parrot and Blue-breasted Fairywren. The variety of species, colours and calls in such a small area was phenomenal. 

Red-capped Parrot (Purpureicephalus spurius)

Blue-breasted Fairywren (Malurus pulcherrimus)

Tozer's has it all - flora, fauna and flushing toilets!

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