After several days crossing the Nullarbor Plain and feeling increasingly frustrated with the sameness and lack of birds, it was with relief that I saw a sign indicating I had arrived at the Great Western Woodlands. I started seeing more birds and was excited to stop at Newman Rock. I had seen some interesting birds listed here on eBird. As I drove in to find a pitch I could see and hear lots of birds. As usual, I immediately left the van once parked and started to explore. Within 20 minutes I had 6 species of honeyeater - a very good sign. There were thornbill, bee-eater, parrots and shrikethrush. Unfortunately, I was defeated very quickly by the humble fly. Well, thousands of them. The usual annoying ones swarmed around my head while the orange-bum variety that buzz like Christmas all tried to get in my ears. Worst of all, there were March flies which tried to take chunks out of my legs. Monstrous and I had to retreat to the van. I tried several times that afternoon to get out but gave up in the end and resigned myself to trying again in the morning.
Since leaving the Nullarbor Roadhouse I had been through 3 time changes. A couple of days ago the sun was rising at 7.30 and here it was up and shining at 5am. I was beginning to feel a little disorientated and retired at 7pm that night. I was awake at 4am and it was already beginning to get light. Determined to get some shots and see the birds better, I was out at 5. Behind the camping area I found a small dam and set off to investigate it. There were 2 Sharp-tailed Sandpipers working the edges.
Sharp-tailed Sandpiper (Calidris acuminata)
In the bushes around the dam, I could hear the warbling calls of the huge Grey Currawong. Such interesting birds and so fabulous to look at.
Grey Currawong (Strepera versicolor)
I moved back into the woods around the campsite and saw lots more honeyeater. While the White-fronted still wouldn't hang around, the Brown-headed was more co-operative. I just wished the light was a bit brighter.
As I walked along the track I could hear a repetitive pinging call and thought I better investigate. I walked into the woods and I knew I was close but I couldn't see it. It must be right in front of me. And there it was. Sitting on a dead branch just above me singing away was a male quail-thrush. It wasn't worried about my presence, just carried on calling and suddenly that monotonous drone became the most glorious tune I had ever heard.
Copperback Quail-thrush (Cinclosoma clarum)
I photographed this male until a Spiny-cheeked Honeyeater saw it off.
I didn't expect to see the quail-thrush again but I could hear it calling and wandered towards it. I saw the bird again several times, calling from branches and running around on the ground. It couldn't get any better and then a female turned up. It was just a terrific birding experience.
I really loved being in this woodland. At one point, I stopped and just looked and listened. There were honeyeaters chasing each other, woodswallow flitting around catching bugs, parrots flying past and the quail-thrush calling in the background. It was so wonderful. And then the flies woke up.
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